TOURING LOCARNO
by Christine K. Zarb
 Not many people know that Locarno has one of the largest roundabouts in Europe (not counting the Place de l’Etoile in Paris and London’s Piccadilly Circus), and that in 1925 it made history by hosting the Peace Conference. Today its prominence is achieved mainly through the International Film Festival, which takes place in August.
The rest of the year Locarno is a sleepy little resort town with a mild climate that attracts hordes of Swiss-German tourists. The 15th century Castle, the Castello Visconteo, houses the Casorella art gallery where a collection of works by the Dadaist Jean Arp is on permanent display. The casino and a string of cinemas liven up the nightlife, but perhaps Locarnoís most distinctive feature is the Piazza Grande.
The unusually shaped cobbled square is the focal point of both the town of Locarno and the International Film Festival, when it transforms itself into a huge open-air cinema. In fact, the Piazza Grande boasts one of the largest silver screens in the world.
Beyond Locarno, lie a variety of quaint destinations that make ideal day-trips. Form the town center, you can take the funicular to Orselina and visit the sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso. This baroque church was built in 1480 after a monk, Bartolomeo d’Ivrea, had a vision of the Virgin Mary. From here a cable car will take you to Cardada, which offers great views of Locarno and Lake Maggiore. In winter Cardada doubles as a ski resort but in summer you can wander along the excellent walking tracks. If you’re too lazy to walk, a chair lift will take you all the way to Cimetta at 1672m.
Close to Locarno, Ascona is an ideal place to stroll through the picturesque back streets and discover the many craft shops and art galleries. Alternatively, you can go on a boat cruise on Lake Maggiore ó the ferries depart form the main jetty in Locarno. Make sure you get off at the Isole di Brissago and explore the botanical gardens.
To get away from the maddening crowd, try an excursion into the nearby valleys of Maggia and Verzasca. These are locations that offer truly unique scenery and great bush walking. You can pack your lunch and enjoy a simple picnic, sunning yourself on a huge boulder by the river, or you can treat yourself to a traditional fare at one of the local inns.
Of the two valleys the Val Maggia is wider and more popular thanks to its large swimming holes and sandy spots. The journey into the valley begins at Ponte Brolla where you can admire the 33m high Roman bridge. Further north, a branch of the valley terminates in Bosco Gurin. At 1503 m it is the highest village in Ticino and a German-speaking enclave. Further north at the end of Val Lavizzarra, lies the tiny village of Mogno, noteworthy because it boasts a treasure of contemporary architecture. In 1986 after it was destroyed by a landslide, the church of S. Giovanni Battista was rebuilt in 1995 by the famous Ticinese architect Mario Botta.
Val Verzasca is known as the valley with the green water and has much to offer starting from its primitive villages and wild landscape. In Lavertezzo, stop to admire the Ponte dei Salti, a double arched bridge that dates back to the middle ages. Thrill seekers are advised to stop at the artificial lake. Here you can bungee jump off the damn, but if the height makes you queasy, simply stop for an ice cream and take in the view of the emerald lake.
If you’re afraid of heights beware, the Cento Valli or the hundred valleys, is a narrow passage through steep mountains and d deep valleys. A small train line that begins in Locarno and takes you across the border to Italy, meanders through the vertical landscape past stone villages and across dizzying bridges.
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